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Windows Secrets Newsletter • Issue 216 • 2009-10-01 • Circulation: over 400,000 |
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BONUS DOWNLOAD
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Table of contents TOP STORY: Get your system ready for a Windows 7 upgrade KNOWN ISSUES: Netbook news on Windows 7 is hype, Woody finds WACKY WEB WEEK: Google's invisible city is an identity saver LANGALIST PLUS: Restore a hard drive's lost boot sector BEST SOFTWARE: Manually remove programs that lack uninstallers WOODY'S WINDOWS: Sharing is easy with Windows 7's homegroups |
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TOP STORY Get your system ready for a Windows 7 upgrade
By
Scott Spanbauer
Removing unneeded applications and making sure your hardware devices will work with Windows 7 are good things to do before you purchase and install the new operating system. A merciless approach — ruthlessly excising software clutter prior to the OS upgrade — will help ensure that the process goes smoothly. With Windows 7's official release to consumers just weeks away, you may be champing at the bit to upgrade your existing system. If you choose to install Win7 on an old Vista machine, however, a wise precaution is to clear out some of the clutter the machine has collected over the years. First, determine which version of Windows 7 is best for your needs. In his July 16 Top Story, WS contributing editor Woody Leonhard examines the various Win7 editions. He concludes that, for most people, the less-expensive Home Premium version is a better choice than either Windows 7 Professional or Ultimate. (Note that Windows 7 Starter Edition is available only preinstalled on netbooks. Woody's June 4 Top Story discusses the design limitations Microsoft is placing on netbooks running Windows 7 Starter.) Once you've selected a Windows 7 version, download and run the beta of Microsoft's Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor, which you'll find on the company's Get Windows 7 page. The utility will indicate whether there are known Windows 7 compatibility problems with any devices on your PC. If so, the advisor may even suggest how to resolve the problem. Microsoft's page states that systems running Vista will usually have no problem moving to Windows 7. Conversely, if you're currently using XP or any other operating system, the company says you should "experience Windows 7 on a new PC." That may be good advice, but I'm the kind of guy who likes to find out for myself rather than take Microsoft's word for it. To be sure, many (most?) Windows 7 hardware and software incompatibilities won't become known until after the OS ships on Oct. 22. This means you should take the advisor's results at this point with a grain of salt. The current beta version of the advisor is available only in English. Also, using the page requires that you share information about your system with Microsoft, though the company promises that "no information will be used to identify or contact you." Dump the applications you no longer use Uninstalling unused applications not only frees disk space, it also returns precious system memory to Windows and applications, shortening their start-up times. If you're planning an upgrade to Windows 7, moreover, removing nonessential programs reduces the odds that you'll encounter incompatibilities during the upgrade process. We're often our own worst enemies when it comes to unnecessary software installations. A program catches our eye, we give it a spin or two, and then we promptly forget all about it. In addition to wasting disk space and cluttering the Start menu, the software can become a security threat as it ages and goes unpatched. If you plan to use a program infrequently in the future, it may be best to install it only long enough to use it and then uninstall it until the next time you need it. A side benefit of this approach is that you may be more likely to try alternative applications — possibly smaller and faster ones — instead of sticking with whatever program's already on the system. Another option is to exile some programs from your computer's hard drive to removable media. Firefox, OpenOffice.org, 7-Zip, Java, and other popular Windows apps and utilities are now available in portable versions you can install on a USB drive. This keeps them handy without adding them to the Registry or Start menu. WS senior editor Gizmo Richards reported on how to choose and use portable applications in his June 18 and July 2 Best Software columns (paid content). Free utilities make system cleanup a breeze The problem with the uninstall utilities that ship with most apps is that they tend to leave behind files, folders, shortcuts, and Registry entries. Gizmo's Sept. 17 Best Software column (paid content) describes two free uninstall utilities that do a more-thorough job of excising applications from your system: ZSoft Uninstaller and Revo Uninstaller. You'll find links to download the former on the ZSoft Software site and the latter on the VS Revo Group site. Also, in today's Best Software column, Gizmo covers the manual approach to removing programs when an uninstall routine is unavailable. After dumping all but the essential programs on your system, take a moment to jettison other superfluous files. Right-click the Recycle Bin icon on the desktop and choose Empty Recycle Bin to really delete those deleted files. Next, right-click your hard drive's icon in Windows Explorer or any folder window and choose Properties, Disk Cleanup. Finally, defragment your hard disk. You can start Windows' built-in disk defragmenter from the drive's Properties dialog box by choosing the Tools tab and clicking Defragment Now. However, a third-party tool such as J.C. Kessels' free MyDefrag (formerly JKDefrag) is faster and more thorough. You'll find a download link for the program on the MyDefrag site. Once in a while, you'll run into a program that just can't be pried loose from your Windows installation by using Windows' own tools. WS editor-at-large Fred Langa presents his favorite uninstall tools, including Microsoft's free Windows Installer CleanUp Utility and jv16 PowerTools, in his March 26 LangaList Plus column, "Clean up the mess left by incomplete uninstalls" (paid content). Prepare your PC for the big Win7 migration There are three more steps to take prior to beginning the upgrade. First, use Windows' free, built-in Backup utility or another backup program to copy your data files to a removable medium. You'll find instructions for using Windows Backup in Microsoft Knowledge Base article 308422. Gizmo reviewed third-party backup programs on Sept. 4 and Sept. 18, 2008 (paid content). Second, gather the installation discs and serial numbers for your applications. If you do a clean install of Windows 7, you'll need the discs and software license numbers to reinstall the programs once the upgrade is finished. Also, be prepared to download and install any patches and security updates for the programs from the vendors' sites. Third, be prepared for any unexpected hardware glitches. Visit the download section of your PC vendor's site to find the Windows 7 drivers for your specific video and network adapters. Save the Win7 version of the drivers for your system's adapters on a USB drive or other removable medium. If something goes wrong with your upgrade, installing the new drivers you've saved in this way may solve the problem. There's no reason to start your Windows 7 sojourn with a poky PC. By banishing the bloat beforehand, you'll spend more time working (or playing) and much less time watching the Windows hourglass. Scott Spanbauer writes frequently for PC World, Business 2.0, CIO, Forbes ASAP, and Fortune Small Business. He has contributed to several books and was technical reviewer of Jim Aspinwall's PC Hacks. |
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KNOWN ISSUES Netbook news on Windows 7 is hype, Woody finds
By
Dennis O'Reilly
This week, several tech news sources reported that Microsoft had lifted restrictions on which versions of Windows 7 could be installed on netbooks. In fact, WS contributing editor Woody Leonhard reported months ago that no such restrictions were in place and that netbook makers could install any version of Win7. On Sept. 25, TG Daily blogged that Microsoft would no longer restrict netbook OEMs to Win7's weak "Starter Edition." That sounds like quite a scoop. But in his June 4 Top Story, Woody reported that MS would allow any version of Win7 to be installed (although OEMs would of course be charged more for higher versions). Our esteemed contributing editor would like to set the blogosphere straight on the matter:
The Feds go to lengths to protect online access In the Sept. 10 and Sept. 24 Top Stories, WS contributing editor Scott Dunn described ways you can try to outwit keyloggers if you have no choice but to sign in to a Web site from a public PC. If you really need to protect your password, however, take a tip from the U.S. Department of the Treasury, as Jerry Smith describes:
Two-factor authentication isn't perfect. A sophisticated "man in the middle" attack can exploit a user's credentials, as reported by Dancho Danchev on his Zero Day blog at PCMag.com. But a combination of factors is better than a simple password that could easily be copied by a keylogger when you're using an untrusted PC.
The Known Issues column brings you readers' comments on our recent articles. Dennis O'Reilly is technical editor of WindowsSecrets.com. |
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WACKY WEB WEEK Google's invisible city is an identity saver
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LANGALIST PLUS Restore a hard drive's lost boot sector
Singing the 'can't boot my drive' blues Karl Barton encountered one of the worst problems that can happen to a hard drive, perhaps second in severity only to a mechanical head crash:
The information you'll need for XP is in Microsoft Knowledge Base article 314058, "Description of the Windows XP Recovery Console for advanced users." Vista's version of the Recovery Console is called the Windows Recovery Environment (RE) and operates quite differently. The Bootrec.exe tool in Windows RE serves a function similar to XP's fixMBR and fixBoot commands. Bootrec.exe lets you troubleshoot and repair various boot and startup issues. (BTW: Windows 7 uses the same Windows RE as Vista.) For more information, see MS KB article 927392, "How to use the Bootrec.exe tool in the Windows Recovery Environment to troubleshoot and repair startup issues in Windows Vista." If Windows' own tools don't restore the drive's boot sector, commercial programs such as Active Data Recovery Software's Active@ Partition Recovery (U.S. $40) may help. Read more about the utility on the vendor's site. If you're seriously old-school, you can manually edit the boot sector, as described in an article on the NTFS.com site. Just make sure you speak hexadecimal! Reviving an ancient DOS app in Vista R. Neil Capper has a mission-critical DOS program (yes, they still exist). Trouble is, it stopped working after a crash:
It's also possible that the program's compatibility settings got scrambled. You can make sure they're OK by running Vista's built-in Compatibility Wizard, which is specifically designed to help you run old-style programs in a carefully constrained environment within Windows. See MS KB article 555917, "How to start the Program Compatibility Wizard in Windows Vista." Likewise, it's possible that the crash resulted in the program being erroneously flagged as being a Web download, and thus may be "blocked" by Windows' security. Right-click the program, select Properties, choose "unblock," and see if that helps. One of these approaches — reinstalling a fresh, known-good copy of the original program and/or correcting Vista's settings for the program — should get your prehistoric app going again! Lost my Outlook Express contacts — again! A reader named Vicki wants to stop losing her contact list:
If the official Microsoft verbiage is too geeky — it can be, at times — the folks at Free Email Tutorials have a nicely illustrated explanation of the same information. See the site's article titled "Backup Outlook Express address book contacts" for the inside scoop. Oops! Trialware/freeware confusion strikes Long-time reader Henry S. Winokur properly takes me to the woodshed for an error in my Sept. 17 column:
I apologize for my confusion and will now go eat some ginkgo biloba. Where did all the nasty photos come from? H. Berrien Zettle has a very prickly problem:
The cause of the uninvited images could be innocuous. It's possible that separate e-mails got concatenated into one. I've had this happen — very rarely — on my systems. It's as if an e-mail loses its end-of-file marker and gets seamlessly connected to the following message. Upon reading the conjoined e-mails, you see the first one normally, but within the same e-mail, the headers and text of the next message appear. The result is messy, hard to read, and clearly caused by a software error. As I mentioned, such concatenated e-mails are very rare and usually happen only after your e-mail program crashes. In my experience, only the body of the messages is involved, never e-mail attachments. For this to happen, the e-mail immediately after your daughter's would have to be the one with the objectionable photos, and the header information — showing who sent the X-rated photos — would still be visible. Thus it would be obvious what was going on. I suppose there could be other equally rare scenarios involving errors by the e-mail server or ISP, but to be honest, I can't think of a way that the naughty photos would just arrive from nowhere, seamlessly attached to your daughter's e-mail. It's much more likely that the images really did come from your daughter's camera or her system. Perhaps she loaned the camera or PC to someone else who took or saved the photos. There are obvious issues of privacy and trust wrapped up in this. A lot will depend on how old your daughter is and what kind of relationship you have with her. But if you want to find out where the pictures came from — maybe you don't — you could start your forensics by checking your daughter's "sent" folder to see if the questionable photos are in the original copy of the e-mail. If they're there, then the photos were attached inside your daughter's e-mail client, not in Colombia or en route. You might also ask your Colombian friends to send the bad photos back; you or your daughter could use the photos' names, dates, and sizes to search for similar items on your daughter's PC and perhaps track them down that way. Most digital cameras also encode EXIF (Exchangeable Image File Format) data along with the photos. EXIF data can tell you what camera took the photos, the date the photos were taken, and more. Some image-processing software can show you the EXIF data directly, and numerous standalone tools do the same thing. See "How to read EXIF data from your image files" on CelluTips' EXIF page for more on the technology. You can also check the camera's own memory to see what's there. Any capable "undelete" or file-recovery software will see and recover any recently erased photos in the camera's memory. The excellent Major Geeks download site has a long list of such tools. Good luck with this. Technology can help you find out where the photos came from, but your heart will have to guide you from there. Fred Langa is editor-at-large of the Windows Secrets Newsletter. He was formerly editor of Byte Magazine (1987–91), editorial director of CMP Media (1991–97), and editor of the LangaList e-mail newsletter from its origin in 1997 until its merger with Windows Secrets in November 2006. |
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BEST SOFTWARE Manually remove programs that lack uninstallers
Failed installations can leave your PC hanging There are two ways you can end up without an uninstall option. The first is when the program installation itself fails and as a result the uninstall option provided by the developer is not available. That's the situation I discussed in my Sept. 17 column, which is the first part of this two-part series. The second case is when the developer does not provide an uninstall option. This is not all that common with commercial software, but you do strike it with freeware. In this situation, you'll need to uninstall the program manually. This is what we'll be looking at today. The procedure for uninstalling a program manually can actually be applied to both cases. However, before we start, I should make perfectly clear that manually uninstalling a program is an imperfect procedure. You can never be exactly certain what changes a program makes when it's installed to your computer. You can take a good guess, but that's all. Because there's some guesswork involved, there's always a small chance that manually uninstalling the program may cause problems with your computer. For that reason, it's essential that you back up the Registry beforehand by creating a restore point. To do so, click Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, System Restore. Choose Create a restore point, click Next, and step through the wizard. A review of the normal installation process Uninstallation consists of identifying what data has been written to your computer during installation and then deleting it. That sounds simple enough, but unfortunately, there's no universal standard for what a program does during installation. It's up to the program developer to determine exactly what takes place. That said, most installers do the following:
Step 1: Remove the program's autostart entries Most programs make changes to your PC when they're installed, ensuring that they or their services will start every time Windows does. There are many ways of doing this. Manually chasing down the exact method used by the program you want to uninstall can be tedious. The most efficient way of removing autostart entries is to use a startup utility that monitors all startup locations. My favorite such utility is the free Autoruns from SysInternals (now owned by Microsoft). The program lists absolutely everything that autostarts on your computer. As a bonus, Autoruns itself doesn't require installation. Visit the Microsoft TechNet site to grab your copy. Fire up Autoruns and click the Everything tab. Next, click the Publisher tab to sort the listing by publisher. Look for the product or developer name. If the information relates to the program you want to remove, uncheck the box on the left side of its listing. (See Figure 1.) ![]() Figure 1. Uncheck a program's entry in Autoruns' Everything tab to prevent the program from starting with Windows. Be careful to ensure that the program you uncheck is specifically related to the program you want to uninstall. The name of the publisher is a helpful guide but can be misleading if you have more than one program on your PC from that vendor. If in doubt, enter the file name in a search engine and look for clues that it's associated with the program in question. The startup program you want to halt may have no publisher name listed. In this case, you'll have to rely on the file name itself to guide you. Again — if in doubt, search the Internet for the file name. Don't worry too much about stopping the wrong program, because unchecking an Autoruns entry merely disables it. You can recheck the box if you run into problems. After completing this step, reboot your computer to remove any running programs or processes associated with the program you're uninstalling. You must reboot before proceeding to the next step. Step 2: Delete all the program's files Open the C:\Program Files folder and look for a subfolder with the same name as the product you want to uninstall. Once you've located the program's folder, select and delete it and all its contents. There's a trap here you need to be aware of. Sometimes, products aren't installed in the folder of the same name as the product but rather in a subfolder within a folder with the developer's name. For example, PerfectDisk isn't installed in the C:\Program Files\PerfectDisk folder, as you'd expect, but in the following location: C:\Program Files\Raxco\PerfectDisk "Raxco" is the name of the developer of PerfectDisk. The folder you want to delete is the folder named after the product itself, not the folder named after the developer. If you delete the developer's folder, you may also remove other programs from the same developer that are stored in the same folder. Step 3: Delete the app's user and data files This step's a little tricky, because user and data files can be located in several different areas on your PC. Worse still, the locations vary in different versions of Windows. In Windows XP, the most common locations for these files are: • C:\Documents and Settings\user\Application Data • C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data • C:\Documents and Settings\user\Local Settings\Application Data In these examples, user is your Windows user name. In Vista and Windows 7, the common locations for program files are: • C:\Users\user\AppData\Local • C:\Users\user\AppData\LocalLow • C:\Users\user\AppData\Roaming • C:\Users\All Users Look in these areas for folders with the same name as the product you're uninstalling. Once you locate them, delete them. Once again, be aware that the folder you want may be a subfolder located within a folder with the developer's name. Delete only the product's subfolder, not the vendor's folder that contains it. The folders I've listed are the most-common locations. To search for other, more-obscure locations, use Windows' built-in search function or your desktop-search program to locate files or folders with the same name as the product you want to uninstall. Do a separate search for files or folders with the developer's name. For these types of searches, I use the free Everything utility I described in my Feb. 19 column. The Everything app is lightning-fast and extremely thorough in its searches. Step 4: Remove the program's Registry entries Technical hotshots who know how to use Windows' Registry Editor can remove an unwanted program's entries by hand. But for most users, I recommend using a third-party Registry cleaner to remove this information. These tools aren't as thorough as manually deleting the data, but they're generally safer to use. Most people have a Registry cleaner (such as Piriform's popular CCleaner freeware) installed on their system. If you don't, I suggest you try the free program EasyCleaner, which is available from the vendor's site. EasyCleaner has an excellent record of cleaning without creating problems. Using EasyCleaner couldn't be simpler: just install the program, run a scan, and then delete the erroneous entries it finds. Step 5: Perform one last general cleanup To finish the job, click Start and look for any entries on the menu that refer to the program you just deleted, whether in the opening menu or under All Programs. If you find any, right-click the entry and select Delete. Next, look on your desktop for unwanted icons left over from the program and delete any you find. Finally, check the Add or Remove Programs applet in Control Panel (in Vista, it's called Programs and Features) to ensure there's no entry for the deleted program. There really shouldn't be, but if there is, you can use CCleaner's Tools option to remove it. Visit the product's site to download your copy. No manual software uninstallation is perfect After completing these five steps, you should have removed most of the information written to your computer by the program you want to uninstall. However, it's almost certain that you'll have missed something:
If you don't like the idea of this unneeded information cluttering up your computer, reinstall the program you just deleted. But this time, make sure the installation is monitored by an uninstaller such as the free ZSoft Uninstaller. Once the installation is complete, use ZSoft's program to completely uninstall the program. All of these uninstall problems can be prevented if you make a practice of monitoring your software installations with an uninstaller such as ZSoft's. Monitored installations can always be uninstalled, regardless of whether the developer provided an uninstaller or whether the installation failed. As I said in my last column, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Ian "Gizmo" Richards is senior editor of the Windows Secrets Newsletter. He was formerly editor of the Support Alert Newsletter, which merged with Windows Secrets in July 2008. |
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WOODY'S WINDOWS Sharing is easy with Windows 7's homegroups
What you need to run Windows 7's homegroups I talked about homegroups in my May 14 Top Story, "Two big reasons why you'll like Windows 7." Microsoft's new OS is set to appear on store shelves later this month. Unfortunately, misinformation about this important subject is all over the Web. Here are the basics: • To create or join a homegroup, your PC must be running Windows 7 Systems running Vista and XP can't participate in homegroups, nor can Macs or Linux computers. That isn't so dire as it sounds, however. Regardless of whether your Windows 7 PC is a member of a homegroup, it can still communicate with other computers on your network using the old-fashioned Windows sharing methods you've come to know and hate over the years. Say your network consists of two Windows 7 PCs and an old XP clunker with an attached shared printer. The Win7 PCs can still use the printer. And the XP machine can retrieve data on the homegrouped Windows 7 PCs via the standard XP/Vista peer-to-peer sharing methods. The main difference is that Win7 PCs in a homegroup get folders and printers served up to them on a silver platter. It's important to note that any Windows 7 PC can join a homegroup, but the system setting up the homegroup must be running a version of Windows 7 other than Starter or Home Basic. • To set up or join a homegroup, your PC must be attached to a "Home" network This sounds mysterious, but creating a Home network is really pretty easy. When you set up a network connection, Windows asks whether the link should be treated as a Public, Work, or Home network. Behind the scenes, choosing a network type is just a handy way of selecting a whole bunch of security settings. In Windows 7, choosing a Home network allows your PC to join or create a homegroup. You say you don't know whether your system's on a Home network? Not to worry. Open the Control Panel. Under the Network and Internet heading, choose View network status and tasks. Below the heading "View your active networks" you'll see a house icon — how homey can you get, eh? — to indicate that you're hooked into a Home network. (See Figure 1.) ![]() Figure 1. The house icon indicates that you're connected to a Home network in Windows 7's Network and Sharing Center. If you're on a Work or Public network and want to change to a Home network, click either of the links labeled Work network or Public network, choose Home network, and click Close. Not quite rocket science. Many folks who write to me are confused about Home networks. "Home" is just a nom de guerre for a bunch of security settings. You don't have to be at home to run a Home network, and a Home network can include Macs. The term "Home" refers only to the way your PC treats the network. You wouldn't normally identify a network connection in a public place such as a coffee shop as a "Home" connection. But in most other cases, a Home network will suffice. • To join an existing homegroup, you have to know the password Retrieving a homegroup password is easy. Sign in to a PC attached to the homegroup and click Start, Control Panel. Under the Network and Internet heading, click Choose homegroup and sharing options and then select View or print the homegroup password. • To use a homegroup, your PC must be running IPv6 I've heard several complaints from Win7 users who claim homegroups don't work. In many cases, the situation can be described by the old Walt Kelly Pogoism, "We have met the enemy and he is us." If you haven't messed around with the innards of your Windows 7 machine, IPv6 is running by default. But if you've been fooling with Mother Nature, you may have turned off IPv6. Your bad. Setting up a homegroup requires a wake-up call Every time you attach a Win7 PC to a network and tell Windows you're using a Home network, the OS sniffs around the network to see whether there are any Windows 7 PCs attached to it. If there are, Windows then checks to determine whether any of the machines belong to a homegroup. Several people have contacted me to complain that Win7 PCs that are newly attached to a network don't discover an existing homegroup. The most common reason for the failure? All the PCs in the homegroup are hibernating. To solve the problem, make sure at least one of the systems in the homegroup wakes up. It only takes one. If Windows 7 doesn't detect any kindred spirits on the network that are connected to a homegroup, it offers to set up a homegroup for you. To set up a new homegroup, you must first select which "libraries" to offer to other PCs. For most people, the big question about homegroups is whether you want to share your Documents library with other PCs attached to the homegroup. By default, Windows doesn't offer to share your Documents library. (See Figure 2.) ![]() Figure 2. Using Win7's "Create a homegroup" dialog, select the folders you want to share with other PCs in your homegroup. The precise sharing details — which folders get shared and who has read and write access — can get a bit complicated, although it's all quite logical. I cover the details in Chapter 1 of Book 7 of Windows 7 All-In-One For Dummies (Wiley). Info on the book is available from Amazon: United States / Canada / Elsewhere After you select which libraries you want to share, Windows provides a long password for the homegroup. (See Figure 3.) It's impossible to memorize this password, which is a pain because you have to enter it on each Windows 7 PC that you want to connect to the homegroup. ![]() Figure 3. The homegroup password generated by Windows 7 is difficult to remember, but you can create a password of your own. If you wish to change the password to something more reasonable, it's best to do so before any other computers are connected to the homegroup. If you attempt to change the default password later, you'll have to change the password manually on each PC on the network — blech! To set your own password, click Finish in the password box, choose View or change homegroup settings, and select Change the password. Follow the steps listed there to enter your own password. After the homegroup has been established, adding new Windows 7 PCs to the network is a breeze. Simply attach the Win7 computer to the network and identify the network as the "Home" variety. Windows sniffs and sees a homegroup already established, asks whether you want to share your Documents library, and prompts you to type in the homegroup's password. Ta-da! Now it's time to put your homegroup to use Homegroups are baked into every nook and cranny of Windows 7. For example, when you click Start, Documents, a homegroup list appears on the left. The same thing happens when you select Pictures, Computer, or Music. If you fire up Word 2007 and click File, Open, the homegroups are right there. Navigating to a homegroup — or a folder in a shared library within a homegroup — is as easy as opening a folder or file on your computer. Media streaming from homegroup computers works in a flash. You can connect to printers on homegroup computers just as easily as setting up a printer on your own computer. To make a folder available to everyone in your homegroup, simply add the folder to one of your shared libraries. If you share your Documents library, for example, add the folder to your personal Documents folder or to the PC's Public Documents folder to allow everyone in your homegroup to read, modify, or delete items in the folder. Sometimes you may want to share a folder with your homegroup without adding it to a shared library. For example, you might want to share your Downloads folder with everyone in the homegroup. To do so, navigate to the folder, click it once, choose the Share with button at the top of the screen, and select either Homegroup (Read) or Homegroup (Read/Write), depending on how much you trust the other folks in your homegroup. (See Figure 4.) ![]() Figure 4. Sharing a folder with other PCs in your homegroup is as easy as selecting it, choosing "Share with," and clicking one of the four options. If you want to discontinue sharing a folder with a homegroup, navigate to the folder, click the Share with button, and choose Nobody. More than one homegroup can exist on a single network, but things quickly get complicated. A particular computer can be part of only one homegroup at a time. You can leave one homegroup and join another, but you can't be a member of two homegroups at once. (By the by, homegroups work great with Windows Home Server.) The benefits of homegroups on Win7 far outweigh the quibbles. After the hassles we've all experienced when attempting to share files and printers on older versions of Windows, I bet you'll find homegroups a breath of fresh air. Woody Leonhard's latest books — Windows 7 All-In-One For Dummies and Green Home Computing For Dummies — are currently available in several languages. |
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YOUR SUBSCRIPTION The Windows Secrets Newsletter is published weekly on the 1st through 4th Thursdays of each month, plus occasional news updates. We skip an issue on the 5th Thursday of any month, the week of Thanksgiving, and the last two weeks of August and December. Windows Secrets is a continuation of four merged publications: Brian's Buzz on Windows and Woody's Windows Watch in 2004, the LangaList in 2006, and the Support Alert Newsletter in 2008. Publisher: WindowsSecrets.com LLC, Attn: #120 Editor, 1700 7th Ave., Suite 116, Seattle, WA 98101-1323 USA. Vendors, please send no unsolicited packages to this address (readers' letters are fine). Editorial Director: Brian Livingston. Senior Editor: Ian Richards. Editor-at-Large: Fred Langa. Technical Editor: Dennis O'Reilly. Program Director: Tony Johnston. Web Developers: Dan Engler, Damian Wadley. Research Director: Stephanie Small. Research Analyst: Allison Espiritu. Copyeditor: Roberta Scholz. Contributing Editors: Susan Bradley, Scott Dunn, Michael Lasky, Woody Leonhard, Ryan Russell, Robert Vamosi, Becky Waring. Trademarks: Microsoft and Windows are registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation. The Windows Secrets series of books is published by Wiley Publishing Inc. The Windows Secrets Newsletter, WindowsSecrets.com, Support Alert, LangaList, LangaList Plus, WinFind, Security Baseline, Patch Watch, Perimeter Scan, Wacky Web Week, the Logo Design (W, S or road, and Star), and the slogan Everything Microsoft Forgot to Mention all are trademarks and service marks of WindowsSecrets.com LLC. All other marks are the trademarks or service marks of their respective owners. HOW TO SUBSCRIBE: Anyone may subscribe to this newsletter by visiting our free signup page. WE GUARANTEE YOUR PRIVACY: 1. We will never sell, rent, or give away your address to any outside party, ever. 2. We will never send you any unrequested e-mail, besides newsletter updates. 3. All unsubscribe requests are honored immediately, period. Privacy policy HOW TO UNSUBSCRIBE: To unsubscribe from the Windows Secrets Newsletter,
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