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  1. #61
    5 Star Lounger
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    Okay. I understand. Will work this out with HP. For now, that partition is still on the removed disk, which does work with positive Health rating despite its increasing bad sector count. Guess that means it's more or less safe at the moment. Am I correct? Or had I better get at this fix sooner rather than later? How essential is the info on that partition?

    Sorry to keep coming up with follow up questions. Appreciate your input always!

    Linda

  2. #62
    Super Moderator CLiNT's Avatar
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    You can put the drive on a shelf out of the way until it is needed.
    The partition may contain your operating system's set up/installation files, or an image of a factory installed operating system.
    No rush, take your time learning how to create a bootable DVD disk with it.
    DRIVE IMAGING
    Invest a little time and energy in a well thought out BACKUP regimen and you will have minimal down time, and headache.

    Windows 8.1, 64 bit
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    GPU: Nvidia GTX 580*Memory: Corsair 12 GB, 4x3@1600*PSU: Corsair HX1000*Hard drives: REVO X2 160GB*OCZ VERT X3 120GB*5 mechanical storage drives (12 TB) total.

  3. #63
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    Great. It's currently wrapped in the wrapper New Egg had on the new drive so will put it in a safe place while I research the DVD solution.

    Again, Clint, enormous thanks for ALL the time and patience you have given me so generously throughout this "learning experience"!

    Linda

  4. #64
    Super Moderator CLiNT's Avatar
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    Glad everything worked out. If it weren't for the snags we wouldn't learn anything.
    CLiNT
    DRIVE IMAGING
    Invest a little time and energy in a well thought out BACKUP regimen and you will have minimal down time, and headache.

    Windows 8.1, 64 bit
    Motherboard: DX58SO2*Chipset: X58 Express/Intel ICH10*BIOS: SOX5820J.86A.0888.2012.0129.2203*Processor: Intel Core i7 CPU X 990
    GPU: Nvidia GTX 580*Memory: Corsair 12 GB, 4x3@1600*PSU: Corsair HX1000*Hard drives: REVO X2 160GB*OCZ VERT X3 120GB*5 mechanical storage drives (12 TB) total.

  5. #65
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    Good point and you're so right... although I have to admit that many times during the "software challenges" stage, I wished I were learning less and getting it right more!

    Linda
    Last edited by IreneLinda; 2013-01-19 at 19:48. Reason: Added a further thought!

  6. #66
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    More on Noise Issue from Western Digital

    An update on the noise issue:
    • contacted WD support
    • they said: "In regards of your concerns a click or clunck noise on a drive is usually a sign that the drive is not receiving enough power to operate correctly, it is advisable if this sort of problem is happening to change the cable that connects the drive to the computer to verify if the problem persist,"


    Does this make sense to other Loungers?

    It's very tricky to describe a noise, I've discovered. This one is constant but intermittent, if that makes sense; kind of like an occasional mild "clunk" or small "whirr".

    For those of you who followed me on my hard drive replacement journey, you will understand how reluctant I am to do anything further with the hard drive. It is working; HD Sentinel says it's "Perfect" and if, in the opinion of Loungers, I can ignore the issue, I'd sure like to! (but I don't want to be stupid, either!!)

    Thanks for any feedback!

    Linda

  7. #67
    Silver Lounger mrjimphelps's Avatar
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    Any time I hear a clicking noise coming from a hard drive, I figure that that drive is on its last leg. You may very well be able to get the data off of it and even use it for a while longer, but I would no longer depend on it.

    But I would do what WD support said first, just to see if the clicking noise stops.

    Think of all you have learned from fooling with that drive! That's the way all of us have learned.

  8. #68
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    Well if you have a nice quiet system and the drive is set to spin down after 20 minutes or something like that when not in use, as soon as you do call on it, it will begin to spin up, and you will hear a softly increasing whirring noise until proper rotation speed is reached and then you will hear a one or more fairly soft (but they can sound loud on a quiet system) clunking noises as the actuator arms kick into action and move out over the platters. You can check your disk settings through advanced power options (control panel). If its set to 20 minutes wind down time that could be it.

    Also, you already have the best recovery "partition" already made. Its the image you made and restored. As long as your system is performing tip top, that's a tip top recovery point image. Experiment with boot discs at your leisure as long as you have that image.

  9. #69
    Super Moderator CLiNT's Avatar
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    Keep a close eye on the drives monitoring software too. I am not comfortable with "clicking noises" inside computer cases either.
    You may follow Western Digital's advice and change and or reseat the power cable.

    Just remember too that you have possibly the weakest power supply one can get in a desktop. 250W
    DRIVE IMAGING
    Invest a little time and energy in a well thought out BACKUP regimen and you will have minimal down time, and headache.

    Windows 8.1, 64 bit
    Motherboard: DX58SO2*Chipset: X58 Express/Intel ICH10*BIOS: SOX5820J.86A.0888.2012.0129.2203*Processor: Intel Core i7 CPU X 990
    GPU: Nvidia GTX 580*Memory: Corsair 12 GB, 4x3@1600*PSU: Corsair HX1000*Hard drives: REVO X2 160GB*OCZ VERT X3 120GB*5 mechanical storage drives (12 TB) total.

  10. #70
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    Oops! Hadn't seen last 2 replies

    Just checked this forum and found F.U.N. and Clint had posted. Sorry I hadn't received an email notice or I'd have been back to you faster.

    Appreciate both posts: F.U.N.'s helped me understand what was happening; Clint's provided good advice to keep an eye on the analytic software (which I do every morning).

    Couldn't find "Advanced Power Options" (searched Control Panel) but did find that my Power Option was "Balanced", the recommended setting. Also, hadn't realized about low power supply in the computer.

    For now, I'll keep an eye on things, but down the road ... Questions:
    • Can you upgrade a PC's power supply?
    • Would you advise doing so given the new drive?


    Thanks for sticking with me on this and for your reassuring responses!

    Linda

  11. #71
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    Standard tower cases, yes, simple process for an experienced tech to swap out a dead or underpowered PS for a replacement or better one. Small form factor cases, a bit more difficult to find the right shape PS to fit and wattage rating is always very limited (220, maybe 250 or 310).

    Thermaltake has a website where you can calculate the wattage you need for startup particular to your system.

  12. #72
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    Thanks for the reply and the link. It is certainly not a task I'd go anywhere near at this point in my tech knowledge. Best I stick with being a user rather than a fixer ... or, in my case right now, a messer-upper!

    Link calculator was very thorough. I've bookmarked it to go through in more detail again. First go through, I couldn't figure out what information to provide in order for it to calculate!

    Linda

  13. #73
    Super Moderator CLiNT's Avatar
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    Your PSU should be alright for the time being since you didn't actually add anything new.
    But at 250 Watts, there won't be a lot of headroom to work with in terms of adding new component.
    DRIVE IMAGING
    Invest a little time and energy in a well thought out BACKUP regimen and you will have minimal down time, and headache.

    Windows 8.1, 64 bit
    Motherboard: DX58SO2*Chipset: X58 Express/Intel ICH10*BIOS: SOX5820J.86A.0888.2012.0129.2203*Processor: Intel Core i7 CPU X 990
    GPU: Nvidia GTX 580*Memory: Corsair 12 GB, 4x3@1600*PSU: Corsair HX1000*Hard drives: REVO X2 160GB*OCZ VERT X3 120GB*5 mechanical storage drives (12 TB) total.

  14. #74
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    I understand, Clint. Thanks. Right now, I'm not considering adding components - still recovering from the hard disk replacement!

    Linda

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