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  1. #1
    Star Lounger
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    DVD Drive Doesn't Eject When Button Pressed

    This is something that's been driving me nuts for years. Not a current problem, just a -why-?

    Every PC I get... the DVD drive begins to stop responding to the manual eject button. When pressed the light flickers and you can see it 'trying' to open, but it's almost as if something inside is trying to 'stop' the thing from opening.

    Do these things wear out?

    Or are there certain Windows services in the background that try to prevent the thing from opening? (I have certain backup programs that I know lock the drive.) But this is different. Sometimes it will take 10 presses to get it to open. Then a few minutes later it works fine until.... the next time it doesn't.

  2. #2
    Silver Lounger
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    I only know that physically if they sit a long time without being opened they will get sticky, sometimes REALLY sticky, like the door is glued shut, but once freed up again they usually return to normal operation, the exception being a misaligned ejection track or missing gear strip teeth, in which case you might hear a little clicking or rattling (without tray ejection); and if its a tray type drive, almost always you can hear the eject motor and tray bog and the tray tense up trying to open for a few seconds and then the pressure will release again when the eject operation times out.

    If you don't see or hear any of these physical signs or its really old and could just be worn out, then I would say it's probably two or more software programs fighting for control of the drive all the time.

  3. #3
    Silver Lounger
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    Good morn, suntower. Have you tried the Eject option on the drive itself ? My Computor -> Right-click on the device, the menu offers the "Eject", just below "Format". If this still is the problem, then, I would say that the device is defective. Jean.

  4. #4
    Bronze Lounger DrWho's Avatar
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    Between the one drive motor and the drawer drive gears is a little rubber belt, like a small rubber band. If left in one position for an extended time, it can take a SET in that position against the drive gear. A new belt would fix the problem if you could find one and had the expertise to change it.

    It's cheaper to spend the $19 for a new drive and get all new parts that will work properly.

    I've been that route many times. I've changed those belts and it's not an easy chore for beginners, even if you could find the proper belts. And that can be a real bucket of worms.

    You might try the manual release while pushing the drive open button.*

    * The manual release is to push a thin wire, like a paper clip, into the little hole in the front of the drive, to release the drawer. That wire needs to be about 3" long.

    Cheers mates!
    TM
    Last edited by DrWho; 2013-11-29 at 11:20.
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  5. #5
    Star Lounger
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.U.N. downtown View Post
    I only know that physically if they sit a long time without being opened they will get sticky, sometimes REALLY sticky, like the door is glued shut, but once freed up again they usually return to normal operation, the exception being a misaligned ejection track or missing gear strip teeth, in which case you might hear a little clicking or rattling (without tray ejection); and if its a tray type drive, almost always you can hear the eject motor and tray bog and the tray tense up trying to open for a few seconds and then the pressure will release again when the eject operation times out.
    +1 for the "sticky". Let me add temperature to this. Cold aggravates the stickiness. It also hardens the rubber belt mentioned by Dr. Who. You might be able to get the drive to work by storing the PC in a warm area and then exercising the mechanism a lot before putting the PC back into its location. This may work for a while but the drive will probably soon stick again.

  6. #6
    Silver Lounger
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    Riffraff, good day to you.
    I have just lived your problem and solved it. No pushing of the Eject button would work on my #2 DVD PATA device, I was able to get the LED to glow and that was it, ie: no tray movement. Ha! I said to myself, there is 5v logic current but no 12 v operating current. I took the side panel off the machine and reseated the connector and found joy. Looks like one of the 4 connectors was not making a proper contact, either one the center black wires, ground, or the red or yellow inputs, I do not remember which is which. If you have a SATA device, this will not help you in the least, maybe reseating the larger connector might fix your problem. JP.

  7. #7
    Bronze Lounger DrWho's Avatar
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    Cool

    Yeah, those old 'Molex' connectors were very failure prone.

    Re-seating all those connectors is one of the first things I do, when working on a system with intermittent problems.

    Thanks for the feedback!

    The Doctor
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  8. #8
    New Lounger
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    Another thing you might like to try is a little utility I've had luck with lately. It may have been that my hardened belt had been exercised sufficiently so that the next attempt simply succeeded, or that current through a dull connector jumped the threshold - but the action of the program was quick and definite.
    I wonder whether deep, erratic, system processes inhibit ejection at times. What software can do, maybe software can undo.

    The program is 'Optical Info' from Alex Nolan. www.alexnolan.net . It has an Eject button.
    Some other handy utilities, too, available free.

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